Sunday, November 23, 2014

Getting there ...

Sweet Daughter's cloak is now about 95% finished. I just need to find the right ribbon for covering the neck seam so it doesn't rub.

The table is also done. Or, done enough for now. I'd like to get a smoother surface on it, but I need to find the right brush, or applicator.

Not a great picture, but I'm happy with the table.
I switched out two light fixtures -- the downstairs one more than once as I think the first replacement had a short in it. Replacement #2 went in easy-peasy. In part, because I figured out that one of those lights that clip onto the bill of your ball cap would help. Much better lighting that the floor lamp snaked in on an extension cord from the other end of the house.
I also decided the holly "bush" needed to be trimmed back. I couldn't get the hedge trimmer through it anymore.

It was so thick, I had to cut it down to see what was in it, so to speak. Arms are still like jelly ...

Any ideas what to replace it with? Southeast corner of the house, Zone 7.

This morning, I woke up and decided that compared to the refinished table, all my chairs looked like crap. So I decided to refinish one.

A 1940s Windsor-style chair with a faux mahogany wood-grain finish that was chipping off  gets covered in stripper ...

And it was ugly. Clear -- not a knot to be found, but ugly and blotchy. The turned pieces looked like birch. The seat is several sections of pine. I was brought up to believe that painting wood would send one directly to the fiery pits of hell ... so I tried staining it and hoping the pieces would sort of blend together.

Nope. Now it was dark and blotchy. So ... I decided to use milk paint on it. It's currently in process and I'm cautiously optimistic. And that is a post for another day ...

Now it's time for an adult beverage, some analgesic and a book.


  1. Woods that turn blotchy under stain like that need a sanding sealer applied before staining.

  2. Also, tinted topcoats can make a huge difference. That is a large part of getting woods like maple, birch, and pine to take an even dark color. Minwax makes a few ready-to-go tinted polyurethanes in their stain/sealer in one line. I generally prefer to spray poly, but a deft hand with a brush can also do the job. Lacquers can also be tinted to a very high degree, but these you would need to get from a proper paint shop, like an industrial Sherwin-Williams. Call a local cabinet shop for recommendations on that.

  3. Lots of work, and it's paying off! :-)