Sweet Daughter has been consumed with all things “Brave” since we saw
it in the theater this summer, and she decided that’s who she wanted to be for
Halloween. I’d started collecting bits and pieces before I went into
hyper-drive on my riding habit, so I had the teal colored velour (thanks,
eBay!) and the dark brown suede shoes (thanks, eBay!) when I decided to get
down to business this week.
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| Photo found here, the Pixar Wiki site. |
You see … there was a party last night and she wanted to go, so I had
to get busy.
You know what the hardest part was? Deciding where I was willing to cut
corners because it was JUST A COSTUME. Quit laughing. You know who you are.
Yes, I researched it. I looked at still shots of the movie. I zoomed in
on the details trying to figure out what it was they were basing her gown on.
(And, no, it couldn’t have been the fancy one, it had to be the “everyday”
dress.) Now, medieval fashion is not in any way my strong point, but I could
tell that there was some kind of dress over some sort of shirt/shift/chemise
thing. But what to do for the gown? Then it occurred to me. I’d made this tunic
for a co-worker this summer. What if I just cut it floor length? And made it
with different sleeves? Then the shift-thing could poke out in the gaps, and
hopefully look like the movie.
So, where to start? When in doubt, go with what you know, so I grabbed
the Mill Farm shift directions that are included with their girl’s 18thcentury gown pattern and lengthened the sleeves so they’d fit over the bend of
the elbow and still come down to the wrist and end in a 1” ruffle. I cut them
sideways so the neat selvedge edge of the muslin (yes, cotton muslin. Go ahead,
say it …) would act as the hem. I used bias tape for the casing for the elastic
(I know, I’m still twitching from the experience), inserted the elastic, and
sewed up the arm seams. I cut the body out of the remaining width of muslin and
didn’t even bother to cut in an A-line. (I know, I was living dangerously at
this point, and there was no looking back.) I measured the width from the point
of shoulder to where I wanted the neckline to be, and everything in the middle
got cut out for the neckline (2” deep in back, 3” deep in front). I added a
ruffle of some pre-pleated ruffle thing found at our local Micro-Walmart (had I
been thinking, I would have cut the shift 1 1/4” narrower, and used the
selvedge from the other side), some more bias tape and elastic, and I had a
neck casing. Add sleeve gussets, sleeves and hem, and done in 90 minutes.

For the gown, I started with a mock-up. I measured her chest and waist,
and the distance from her waist, up over her shoulder, and down her back to her
… waist. I cut a piece of scrap fabric out that long and folded it in half. I
added some width for ease and seam allowance, and cut an A-line shape along
those measurements and sewed up the sides, leaving room for the armholes. I cut
a + just big enough for her head to poke through, and tried it on over the
shift. I pinned the shoulder seam, drew where the armholes should be, and marked
the neckline. I also fit the sleeve pieces that were cut to her arm
measurements (plus seam allowance). I marked the hem, and the shape of the
upper sleeve, and then went to work on the teal velour.

I bought two yards off of eBay – they were already cut, when meant the
gown wasn’t going to be any longer than about 36”. Luckily, that was just about
right so SD could run around without tripping. I cut the main panels from two
rectangles of fabric, and then transferred the shaping from the mock-up. From the
remaining fabric, I cut 4 triangular gores, making sure the nap on the
triangles went the same way as the gown. I cut a slit up the center of the
front and back rectangles, and inserted a gore in each one, and one on each
side.
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| Center front gore |
Then I finished the rest of the side seams, hemmed the armholes and
neckline, and had SD try it on. To say she was happy with it was an
understatement.
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| How I love eBay! |
The sleeve pieces I cut without any ease, as the velour had some
stretch, and I wanted them to stay in place. I sewed some 1” wide tubes out of
the scraps and used those to connect the sleeves together and attached them to
the gown.
A friend of SD’s had bought a Merida costume which actually came with a
wig. Since the friend already had perfectly long, curly red hair, she gave SD
the wig. Add leather shoes, and a bow and arrow left over from her birthday
party and she was all set.
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| Add a cape made from a yard of gray fleece cut into a half circle and you're ready for the cold. |